The Day Crows Didn’t Fly

It is just 3 kilometers from Chennai Central to Chennai Egmore as a crow flies. Of course, Chennai’s auto-rickshaw drivers do not believe crows when they quote their rates. So they charged Adwait and me Rs 40 for those three kilometers. We did not put up a fight for 13 rupees and 33 paise per kilometer. The time was 10:30 PM. Besides, we had ignored the crows as well for we had spent Rs 157 traveling from Egmore to Central on the same day. It would also be useful here to add that the journey took us 5 trains and 16 hours to complete.

It was an unusually foggy and misty morning on Saturday, December 22, 2007. It would not have seemed out of place for Delhi but Chennai’s mist must have put off the crows. So we had no idea what it takes to reach Chennai Central when Sridhar, Adwait and I assembled at platform 2. The MS-Puducheri passenger was ready to depart. We took our seats in the first SLR after the loco but soon gave it up for the holiday crowd and positioned ourselves at the door. Sridhar Joshi immediately took charge of my new Garmin Etrex-H GPS receiver monitoring speeds, acceleration and braking.

The train started on time at 6.35 AM and ran well through the city into the suburbs stopping just at Mambalam, Guindy and Tambaram. At Vandalur, a call to Bharat Moro confirmed that he would not be able to join us at Chengalpattu. The passenger made customary halts at all stations after Tambaram. Adwait noted that he could not feel the pause of the locos transition (series-series to series-parallel) and borrowed the GPS to note the speeds. He was right. The transition did not pronounce itself in the 30 - 40 kmph band. But strangely, it was quite pronounced at around 52 kpmh. The loco’s turbo was screaming wonderfully and the pilot doing a great job of short braking and quick acceleration. We had a max speed of 84 kmph till Chengalpattu.

We reached Chengalpattu a bit late at 8:10 AM just as the Tirumalpur –Chennai Beach EMU glided along us from the Arakkonam line. The Tirumalpur passenger came to a halt on the same platform a few meters short of the WDM7. Sridhar Joshi and Adwait ran fast to collect our tickets to Arakkonam as the passenger was to depart at 8.15 AM. Meanwhile I scouted for something to eat and found some dosas. I settled in the front SLR as usual for the duo to return. A little later, they returned with the tickets. The GPS told me that they walked 6.97 kmph for the tickets. Ironically, the Tirumalpur train took its own time before leaving the tracks vacant for our departure. We polished off the indifferent dosas and some vadas from another vendor. Sridhar meanwhile wanted to attend the world’s oldest call but all the toilets of the train were locked up for some reason. We wondered what was the difference between a passenger and a MEMU without toilets.

The EMU delayed us by 15 minutes and we started at 8:30 AM. The train was partly filled. We had three seats for ourselves that we were soon going to abandon as usual. The train went on the mixed gauge tracks for a short distance and diverted itself onto the Arakkonam line. The MG tracks were still in place despite the services being stopped. As the train negotiated a cautioned zone with sandbagged embankments, Sridhar shot off the latest land prices in the area further demotivating me from the idea of owning a property in Chennai. Soon the train picked up speed, as we rolled along a pleasant and green countryside rich from the benefits of the recent rainfall.

The WDM7’s flat drum beat kept us company. The loco did not seem to have any transition suggesting a complete series connected motors. Like the WDM3D driver, this one’s pilot was as adventurous with braking and accelerating. After Reddipalayam and Villiambakkam, we stopped at Palur made famous by the National Geographic video report on steam locomotion in India. Palur was not the same anymore as we saw it on the report. The transformation was complete with electric catenaries and modern high platforms and amenities. Once upon a time this was a backwater branch line but now the flurry of modern constructions along the line depicted a different picture now. Even the electric catenary masts spoke of modernization. Most of them consisted of pre-cast concrete poles rather than the regular steel ones.

Post Palur, the scenic beauty remained with the addition of large water bodies enabled by the copious rainfall in the region recently. We had the only crossing at Walajahbad where the Tirupati – Puducheri passenger awaited us to clear the line. The entire route was a token less territory robbing us of the scene of token exchange.

A sudden appearance of modern buildings announced Kanchipuram. After Kanchipuram (Old), we entered the modern and clean Kanchipuram station with just one platform. The road connecting the town with the Bangalore highway was just next to the station and teemed of a large number of vehicles. The gopuram of Varadaraja Perumal temple loomed large in the background with the spires of two other temples close by. One of the wonderful aspects of this lovely line was the abundance of curves.

Post Kanchipuram, the train forever seemed to hit one curve after the other. As a bonus, we were rewarded with the Arakkonam road, a neat and superb affair, extremely close to the tracks. The road ran along with us all the way to Arakkonam. Little towns and villages along the road came and went as we rolled. Tirumalpur was a bigger station with two platforms and other amenities. The Tirumalpur EMU terminated here but the electrification continued further up the line and stopped abruptly just outside Takkkolam.

INS Rajali loomed large along the line as we entered Arakkonam. I had hoped for a glimpse of the TU-154 “Bear” but could see any planes. There are two different platforms at Arakkonam for this line. The first one was just ahead of the mainline station and the train was almost perpendicular to the platforms there. It was just a platform without anything else and quite dirty. But most of the passengers chose to detrain here. The second platform (island) is beyond the mainline station in a corner and our train had to negotiate a steep curve to enter it. We had arrived on time at 9.50 AM despite a late start. The maximum permissible speed of the route was 90kmph and our GPS showed a max speed of 82 kmph. With no trains ahead of us and only one crossing, this train did not make any unscheduled halts enroute.

We got off the train and trekked a long way to the ticket counter on the opposite side. We had to pass all the platforms of Arakkonam and two foot over bridges. There was a huge crowd on the second foot over bridge that took us to the ticketing office. This was the regular commuter crowd to Chennai that was not sure which platform would the next EMU from Tirutani would arrive. So like cats on the wall they hung about on the overbridge. At the ticket counter we quizzed the man on the rates to Renigunta and Gudur and finally bought an express ticket all the way to Gudur via Renigunta. The man was perplexed b our choice as he felt it was much better to reach Gudur via Chennai. We had to explain our motive to him before we went out for a refreshing cup of tea and smoke. We returned and settled down in the waiting hall of platform 2 and 3 and observed the traffic. Our next train to Renigunta, the 1041 Chennai- Mumbai Mail was at 12:40 PM. But as the clock struck 1.00 PM, we were still waiting for the train to arrive.

Finally at 13:12 hrs, the 1041 came in 32 minutes late. The front SLR was for ladies though a few men oblivious to the fact were perched on the seats within. We took the next General coach by the door. We perched our bottoms on the doorway with Sridhar at the doorplate and enjoyed the fast and smooth run to Renigunta.

This line was cleared for 110 kmph and we hit MPS quite quickly thanks to the excellent performance of the WAM4 ahead. It was one exhilarating run akin to a roller coaster as the train negotiated numerous curves without a hint of slowing down. At Tirutanni, I moved to the other doorway and perched on my backside dangling my legs out. The train was close to the MPS all the time and the wonderful scenery outside added to my excitement. Soon the tall peaks of the Eastern Ghats appeared with smaller hills pock marked with big boulders. The valleys below were swathed in green and the sun was just about the right temperature. At Ponpadi, the opposite line disappeared as we hit one huge S curve and rolled on. We had deviated widely from the other line and only joined it at Nagari within AP. Puttur came and went and once again the tracks played hide and seek with each other. A big pool of water parted us after Taduku to be rejoined again at the next station. I spotted a hill range with a huge peak of rock that resembled a WDM2 hauling a passenger rake. It was a treat of sorts all the while till now as the adventurous braking and accelerating continued on this train as well. The rake oscillated madly to the speeds. Later as the hide and seek of the up and down tracks continued, just before Pudi, I spotted the 1042 disappearing into the foliage far away as it negotiated a curve away from us. Had it not been for the red ailway mail service coach amongst the blue passenger coaches, I would still be guessing which train was it. We hit Renigunta at 14:20 hrs, 20 minutes ahead of time despite being 32 minutes late at AJJ. Slack time worked well here. The extra time will be useful in the loco change. Sridhar went up to the loco pilot and showed him the max speed on the GPS and commended him on the acceleration and braking.

Hotel Ruchi promised us Maharastrian meals in pure Marathi just outside Renigunta station. But we went ahead to another restaurant that promised us north, south and Maharashtrian meals. We opted for the Maharastrian meals here and found out what Henry Ford meant when he said “It can be of any colour as long as it is black” referring to the Model-T. The meals were all South Indian except for a couple of rotis to differentiate it as Maharastrian. We finished off the insipid meal and returned back to the station to catch the Guntur passenger to Gudur.

We were again rewarded with an excellent acceleration and braking. The line from Renigunta to Gudur was well maintained with fresh ballasting and minimum oscillations. The route had an MPS of 105 KMPH and we were steady in the 90-100 kpmh band. The Max Speed we hit was 101 kpmh, quite impressive for a passenger. The scenery outside was quite different from the usual Rayalaseema terrain with a lot of greenery and plenty of water bodies. All the stations had platforms at door level and modern amenities. We were on time at all stations but had to be held up just outside Gudur to let a mainline freight and another passenger towards Tirupati pass. We hit Gudur at 17:40 exactly as the loco pilot of the train had predicted…about 5 minutes late. Bidding a goodbye to yet another wonderful train, we stepped out for some coffee. We spied a dosa outlet where I gorged into some dosas before we had some muddy dark coffee. We returned to the station for our last leg. This time, we had a proper reservation in the D5 coach of none other than the BZA-MAS Jan Shatabdi Express. We had traveled on three passengers and an Express and now about to do a superfast. What a day! I was looking forward to the last leg of ultimate speed and acceleration. But the train was a good hour late according to the officials. We had to walk to the end of the platform to avoid the mulling crowd that was waiting for the Nellore – Chennai MEMU (Mainline Electric Multiple Unit). Since we had reserved tickets, we did not want to board the MEMU else we would have added another kind of train for out trip. In any case, the Chengalpattu-Arakkonam passenger with locked toilets earlier was akin to the Diesel Electric MU with matching acceleration and braking.

GDR railway station is renowned for one thing. Mosquitoes of humongous size. We had spied an empty bench and sat on it and soon, I gave up the fight and chose to be mutilated by the mozzies. We were all tired and Sridhar and Adwait had decided to doze off on the JS.

The MEMU came and went as I dozed off. A little later I woke up to the sound of a single tone horn and spied a WAP4 like beast in the darkness on the far away freight loops hauling a BCNA rake slowly. As the light fell on the loco we saw the number 31122! A green loco with a yellow band. It was my first ever sighting of a WAG 9 in a proper manner! The silent beast rolled lazily to the starter and waited there for a while before moving towards Renigunta. The WAG 9 hauled BCNA will ensure that the Express stays for a while at GDR.

Sridhar finally spotted our train far away at 19:27 just as the Tirupati-Secundearbad Padmavathi Express arrived . 3 minutes later we found the JS on the first platform and to our dismay, found a Kazipet WAG 7 freight locomotive at its head. I was beginning to feel that the anticipated superfast experience was about to die there and then! We soon found ourselves in our seats in D5 as the train rolled. We settled down, had some samosas and some diluted tea and relaxed. I closed my eyes for a while. Sridhar meanwhile restarted the GPS to note the speeds. The train was not moving at a great speed and was restricted to the 80kmph band on a track suitable for 105 kpmh.

Old habits die hard! Like Pavlov’s dog, Sridhar and Adwait soon felt the urge to doorplate and promptly broke their self imposed rule of rest and sleep and abandoned their reserved seats for the door. This was also probably prompted by the catering staff’s inability to produce Sridhar’s favourite omelettes. Since the two were firm on door plating, I had no other choice and joined them at the door to record one of the worst runs of JS in my memory! The WAG 7 was finding it difficult to accelerate! We were hardly touching 95 kmph and the series of caution orders ensured a quick deceleration followed by a slow acceleration that took forever. The GPS told me how painful the loco felt in the 50kmph and the 70kpmh bands as it struggled to move to the next band. The 80;s band was quick but the loco took its own time to reach 95 kmph from 90 kmph. At Elavur, we were thrown into the loop line at 15 kmph restriction thanks to a freight parked on the mainline. After the exhilarating Renigunta-Gudur run on a lowly passenger, we had to endure a shameful run on the Gudur - Chennai section on a super fast ! After Minjur, the train somehow redeemed itself with a max speed record of 100 kpmh, one short of the passenger earlier.

After Ennore the train slowed down further and crawled for a while at 30 kmph before picking speed up to 60 kmph at Tondiarpet only to decelerate again at Korukkupet and thereafter crawl all the way to Platform 5 at 10:30 PM. For consolation, the train was not parked behind the Bangalore Shatabdi as usual, which would have meant we had to walk a long way to the exit. We walked out of the station to the auto stand. Sridhar was supposed to catch an EMU to Perambur while Adwait and I had to get back to Egmore, our starting point to collect our respective vehicles. That was where we encountered the auto fares of Rs 13 per kilometer and the start of this report!

Consider this: It cost Rs 17 per head between MS and CGL. Rs 17 again between CGL and AJJ. Rs 48 between AJJ and GDR via RU and rs 75 between GDR and MAS.

The numbers stack up as:

1. MS- AJJ 118 km Rs 34 84 km max speed Scenic
2. AJJ-RU-GDR 158 km Rs 48 110kmph/101 kmph Speed and scenic
3. GDR-MAS 138 km Rs 75 100 kmph Late, slow, dark

Ironically, we had the best part of our journey in terms of running experience and scenic value at 30 paisa per kilometer sitting by the door in a crowded coach ( AJJ-RU and RU-GDR); while the worst part of the journey was at 45 paisa per kilometer in cushioned chairs of a reserved coach of a super fast with catering service. At 29 paisa per kilometer the MS-AJJ run was the cheapest, slowest and most timely run.

So it took us 16 hours and 414 km of travel on five trains through two railway zones and two states to reach Chennai Central from Chennai Egmore which lay 3 km from each other as a crow flies. But that day, the crows did not fly!

Bitragunta

Bitragunta is located between Vijayawada and Chennai on the east coast trunk line of Indian Railwys. The town is in the Nellore district of Andhra Pradesh. Nearest major stations is Nellore to the south and Ongole to the north. A few express trains do halt at Bitragunta today.

Bitragunta’s significance lies in the history of the Steam Era. The abundance of suitable water and availability of plain land enabled the construction of a unique Mechanical Loco Shed. The loco shed was first constructed in the year 1885. A roundhouse with turn-table facility was added in 1934. The roundhouse was known for its architectural value and joined the Mysore roundhouse as one of two spectacular loco sheds in the country. At that time, the loco shed handled 45 steam locomotives and later went on to become one of the biggest in the Indian Railways. Bitragunta was also provided with a major yard and also inter-changing depots for the drivers and guards.

The steam shed was logistically important to medium and long distance trains originating from Madras and the ones passing through Vijaywada down south. In those days, experiments were being made with the Pacific locomotives (WP) of the Grand Trunk Express to provide it more mileage in terms of water and coal consumption. The objective was to provide the GT with a non-stop run between Madras and Vijaywada. The WPs were fitted with water scoops, to enable them to take on water while on the run. A water trough was constructed at Bitragunta just for the purpose. The water scoops on the WPs worked well enough. Unfortunately, due to a deteriorated level of the quality of coal, the engine had to be changed at Bitragunta. The coal carried in the locomotive's tender could not sustain the 420 km long journey, due to the high ash content. Bitragunta had 22 WP locos in its shed then. Later, the shed, under South Central railways held 59 WG and 5 XD locomotives.

Along with the growth of Indian Railways, the marshalling activities at Bitragunta increased manifold. In 1968, a full-fledged marshalling yard with hump facility was established and a wagon-repair depot was added later. The marshalling activities included segregation of wagons and long-distance marshalling orders. The activities continued until 1998.

Bitragunta was also a known “railway cantonment”. Predominantly occupied by Anglo Indians, it had 1000 spacious railway quarters built in European style. It also hosted a Western Culture Institute that is standing till today as the legend of those glorious days.

The evolution in the mode of traction power from steam to diesel and diesel to electric caused the reduction of shed-activities and finally the steam shed at Bitragunta was closed. The closure of the marshalling yard brought a complete closure to the glory of the railway town. Consequent upon the closure of the steam loco shed in Bitragunta, the infrastructure, other equipment and land have not yet been utilized for any purpose.

But Bitragunta still continues as a changing point for all up & down freight trains. Most of the express trains continue to halt here. An ART and MRV are still stationed at Bitragunta. The station still retains vestiges of the glorious past in form of its long platform and old buildings. The remains of the steam shed and the roundhouse can still be seen today.

Two days in Kerala

One of the first things that strikes you in Kerala is the abundance of vegetation. What struck me immediately (and literally) were the teak trees when I took the train from Palghat to Nilambur Rd. I had seen teak in AP, Karnataka, Orissa, Chatthisgarh and even Tamil Nadu. I had seen them in abundance on the Nagpur - Chindwara narrow gauge route too. But none as abundant as on the Shoranur-Nilambur Road branch line.

The trees grew right next to the tracks and their leaves literally slapped anyone daring a footboard travel; so close were they. There are plantations of jackfruit, banana, coconut palm, areca, cashew, pepper and of course, rubber.

I was amazed by the green coverage but worried about forced plantation. Nature does not grow in patterns. Nor does it favour one species over the other. Despite the Darwin theory of survival of the fittest, nature is a great equalizer when it comes to vegetation. In any case, it is not the rubber or jackfruit I am worried about. The worrisome ones are eucalyptus and areca which require least maintenance and generate enough cash. The trouble with these is under their roots. Eucalyptus drains the water table. Areca with its shallow roots loosens the soil and causes erosion. Areca nuts were called Green Gold in Taiwan for their commercial value. But the roots of areca are shallow and grow laterally, preventing water to seep deeper and replenish the ground water table. In cyclone or heavy winds, areca cannot protect the soil from being washed away. This problem is specifically acute in hilly areas or slopes where the soil erosion is even more acute.

The line from Ernakulam Jn to Kayamkulam Jn via Allappuzha was equally exciting as i travelled on it early in the morning. The abundance of water was evident with the greenery, the ponds and bckwaters. Thankfully, the villages dotted with little bunglows were not as predictable with their greenery. It was a pleasure to see a good variety of trees within the kitchen gardens of the houses. It was difficult to tell a town from a village thanks to the thick green cover and vast spaces between houses. Elsehwere, we would have been travelling through a concrete jungle bereft of any vegetation.

Kollam to Tenkasi was another round through plantations, the same rubber, teak, jackfruit and banana types. This route however has steep gradients that enlivened the journey. The route passes through a break in the Western Ghats (specifically the cardomon hills) and captures a wonderful scenery within itself. The little stations are thickly lined with teak and jackfruit and resemble neighbourhood parks rather than drab stations!

Bastar and Dantewada

On July 14, 2007, four of us (Roopesh Kohad, Pareekshit and Praveen) took a car right through the Maoist stronghold of Bastar. Our destination was the Chitrakote Falls in Chattisgarh. Here is a report on the trip:

We started off on July 13, 2007 from Hyderabad in a Tata Indigo (diesel car) at 1530 hrs. We wanted to drive through the forests of Bastar to Jagdalpur and from there to Chitrakote. Our immediate destination was Bhadrachalam on the banks of river Godavari from where the highway to Jagdalpur started.

Listen to Bhakta Ramadas song on Bhadrachalam

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Day 1

The monsoon had started to recede, though there was a considerable amount of rainfall. The route is like this:Bhadrachalam - Chintur (diversion)- Konta (diversion)- Penta- Mothugudem -Sukma- Kukanar-Darba-Tirathgarh-Sosanpal-Jagdalpur-Chitrakote. The road was a National Highway (No 202) and unlike other highways, was a narrow road in a real bad shape. At places, the macadam surface is missing completely and the rains had rendered the road muddy and slushy. However, post Konta at the AP-Chattisgarh border, the scenery began to change rapidly into a thick and lush jungle to make up for the bad road.

There were numerous streams and rivers in spate with muddy water. Principal among them was the river Sabari which ran along the road to join the Godavari at Chintur. We were driving upstream for many miles.The route was patronized well despite the bad state of the road. We had a steady company of loaded trucks, buses, jeeps, off-roaders, auto rickshaws and tractors. One common thing throughout the trip were cows and goats. Somehow, we saw more cows, goats, dogs and chicken than human beings.

Barring the animals, the next most common sight were police! Chattisgarh has recruited an entire army of para-military forces to check the Maoist (Naxalite) menace. Special Group and CRPF (Central Reserve Police Force) cops manned the checkposts in every village. There were fortified barracks next to the checkposts at every village.

Thanks to the monsoon, the land was swathed in different hues of green. The forests typically consisted of teak, sal (Shorea robusta) and mango trees. The fields were planted with rice all over. Offthe fields, grass grew lush and green, evidently fed with monsoon water. Numerous streams overflowed with muddy water, forcing us to stop and savour the scene.

Post Kukanar, the road seemed to improve. We took in the ghats of Darba to the first destination of our trip - Tirathgarh Falls, nestled deep in the mountains.The approach to Tirathgarh consisted of a narrow but well built road. Thanks to the monsoon, there was enough water to retain its magic. The water was a river that originated from a lake further up stream. Water tumbled down from a height of 100 feet over a wide column of rock on to a flat piece of land before slipping down further along the slopes of the mountain into the forest. There were a couple of small shrines beside the stream. A series of steps led us down to the foot of the falls. The water was shallow enough to wade through and reach an appropriate spot to sit and watch the water cascade down. The falling water gave rise to a spray of droplets that kept clouding my camera lens. We spent quite sometime at the falls. There were not many people around. It was not a season of tourists. The entire region is still waiting to be discovered.

We resumed our journey to Jagdalpur and reached Sosanpal where we took the road from Gidam to Jagdalpur (NH 16). At Jagdalpur, we did not find it difficult to find the way to Chitrakote. This road was amazingly broad and well built. We hit a good speed on the road and reached Chitrakote (39 km away) in 20 minutes. The falls were right beside the road but we could not make much out of it in the fading light.At the end of the road and overlooking the falls was the Public Works department's guest house. It was now was undergoing major renovation, probably being converted into a tourist guest house.Adjoining the building was a dirt track that led to the facility built by the Chattisgarh Tourism for tourists. This is a resort that is still being constructed. The department had erected 5 log huts as a temporary measure to attract tourists. A good part of the landscaping was completed. The resort was built at a higher ground than the river. There were a series of concrete cottages being built the edge of the plateau, that offered an uninterrupted grand stand view of the falls from their balconies.The huts were at a disadvantage thanks to these new facilities which blocked the view of the falls. In any case the huts are a temporary solution.

We made a quick detour of the falls at 10 PM. The caretaker of the resort had someone switch on a few floodlights to enable a good view. We were standing at quite close to the drop. The sheer force was evident from the thick mist that rose from the base and filled the air. The roar of the falls in the darkness rendered it eerie and frightening.

Day 2
Chitrakote falls hits you in the face with its granduer. Though not in the league of some of the major falls of the world, the falls on the river Indravathi is nevertheless breathtaking to look at especially in monsoon. The resemblance to Niagara falls is uncanny even though the Canadian-American falls is much bigger. The mouth of the falls is a concave curve. The monsoon rains had caused a lot of water to flow from the catchment areas of the river valley flow into the river with silt and sand causing the Indravathi to swell and inundate the banks.

The caretaker invited us to his favourite haunt. A remote river beach about 2 km downstream from the falls. We had to descend a rough and rock-hewn slope down to the spot. The climb down was trecherous thanks to the slippery smooth stones. But we were rewarded with an absolutely untouched and unspoilt little beach by the cascading muddy waters of the river. The caretaker, Mr. Tiwari rarely brings anyone here and we were the chosen ones of the day thanks to our enthusiasm. The beach kept us in a rapture for quite sometime before we ascended the slope that drained us of all energy.

Later we descended another slope down to the falls. The river had swollen enough to encroach upon dry land with its muddy waters. There were trees right in the middle of the river with the falls in the background. We walked close to the falls and observed it in complete awe standing on the rocks jutting out. Despite all the mud and silt, the falls still generated a great cloud of mist. The force of the water over the years had cut through the rock at the top forming a sieve. It was difficult to get a snap thanks to the continuous spray of water droplets that filled the air.

A cursory detour to the edge of the falls at the same point where we first viewed the falls at night completed out tour. We stood there watching the volume of water cascading down in sheer amazement. It took us the good part of the day to savour the falls as we returned to Jagdalpur, stopping en route to check out the Shitaldhara falls which left us cold and unmoved after the spectacle of Chitrakote. We spent the night at Jagdalpur.

Day 3

We started early. Our plan was to take the National Highway 16 to Hyderabad. Our road atlas showed the highway going all the way to Bhoopalpatnam on the border of Chatthisgarh and AP and further to Mancherial. We were to take a diversion at Bhoopalpatnam to Venkatapuram and cross the Godavari to join the National Highway 202 to Hyderabad enroute Eturunagaram and Warangal. The ride out of Jagdalpur was exciting as the well built, wide road allowed us to cruise at a good speed without a single pothole or speed breaker. We crossed Sosanpal and came close to the Kothavalasa- Kirandul railway line. We were confident of touching Gidam, about 45km away in the next half hour. It took us 3 hours. About 20 km after Sosanpal, the smooth road turned into a minefield of mud and slush. A temporary aberration was what we thought as we spied a board stating that the highway was under construction by the Border Roads Organization.

The aberration lasted all the way till Gidam that tested the mettle of our car. Post Gidam, the road switched between bad to terrible as we tried our best restrain our frustration and the traction of our car. The presence of gun-toting para-military men on patrol (looking for Maoists) and the increasing forestry did not help us with our confidence either. A consolation was the virgin landscape draped in hues of green.

10 Km from Bhoopalpatnam, a group of travellers on a Scorpio coming down the road finally made us wiser. They told us that NH16 does not exist yet! It has been under construction for more than 10 years and almost abandoned. The milestones indicating the distance to Nizamabad were all wrong. There was no bridge across the Indravati to help us cross into AP. Worse, the detour we were supposed to take at Bhoopalpatnam did not exist either thanks to the lack of a bridge across a couple of rivulets that were in spate thanks to monsoon. Had it been summer, we could have waded through the shallow waters. They advised us to turn back immediately and head back to Gidam and from there to Dantewara. It was not safe in tyhese parts as the day wore off. We cursed our luck, the government of Chattishgarh, the Eicher Road Atlas, the Maoists and for a good measure, the town of Jagdalpur where none warned us about this. We had just travelled 200 Km on a road that does not exist! We turned back and headed for Gidam, braving the rain and the slush, rescuing the car a couple of times from the mud using physical force. We hit gidam just before nightfall and reached Danewada where we spent the night.

Day 4
The next day, we took the road to Bailadilla which was in great shape and diverted to the road to Sukma to meet the same highway we had entered Chattishgarh on. By 2 PM we were at Bhadrachalam, in one piece. Thus ended our tour of Bastar. Next time, we shall make discreet enquiries about the road conditions before we rely on road atlases!

Dorabavi Viaduct

These are some hastily snapped pictures of the erstwhile Dorabavi viaduct. I snapped them on TV while it was being shown in a movie.

This Viaduct was opened for metre gauge traffic in the year 1887 and was a part of the former Metre Gauge route between Guntur and Guntakal. A hallmark of engineering, the viaduct was built somewhere between Diguvametta and Chelama on the Nandyal - Giddalur Section in those days.

There was a major realignment of the route during gauge conversion which took the new Broad gauge line away from this spot. The viaduct was abandoned and later dismantled. Sadly, it does not exisit anymore.

Little Rail Bus - Bull Run II

Shimoga - Talguppa Rail Bus. April 14, 2007

I did it again. I travelled on the Shimoga - Talguppa rail bus for the second time. The last time I did it was in 2004 . This time, I travelled on it with a group of 8 others. I could not have photographs the last time and instead wrote a long and nice trip report. This time I keep the words short and say it with pictures.

All photos are by Bharath Moro except where indicated.

Tucked away in a corner of Shimoga railway station is the sole and tiny platform for the Metre Gauge Rail Bus. The bus is an articulated one with a trailing cab. It is a typical Ashok Leyland bus with an internal combustion Hino engine. Braking is however a vacuum affair.

The bus has the typical steel rail wheels. The controls are similar to a normal bus except for the lack of a steering wheel. The horn is typical bus type except that it is an air horn like a normal locomotive mounted on the top. The rail bus cab also has a sander. Seen here are the two lights on before departure. The time is 6.20 AM and the lights are not required. They are put on just for the photograph.

We started to roll along the worn out tracks. The bus does not have the typical rail shock absorbers. Instead it has a leaf-spring absorber that is ineffective in absorbing the jerks. Seen here is the unique operation of gates. This line is quite basic with only one round trip service. hence there are no gatekeepers. The guard doubles as a gatekeeper. The bus slows down before each level crossing and the guard gets down to close the gates/stop traffic in case of gateless crossings. He then lets the bus pass the crossing and reopens the gates. The bus waits for him to return and then moves ahead.

The line is quite old and passes through some variety of terrain. Hence a lot of speed restrictions as seen in the photograph. There are a lot of steep gradients en route.

We reach Haranahalli the first stop as the sun rises. There are no proper platforms all along the route. Just little elevations. Years ago, normal trains used to ply this route behind steam locomotives. Stations have dilapidated ever since. but the little bus still has its patronage in the rural hinterland of Karnataka.

The bus is straight out of the 1960's. The line is more than 60 years old and bumpy. But the forest scenery rolling outside the windows is priceless.

Interiors are cramped and tiny but neat. Seen here is the guard who has to share seat with the passengers. Photo by Ranga

It is April, well into typical South Indian summer. But the higher altitude of Malanad still affords some mist and fog. The weather is cool and fresh.

Visibility is just about adequate. Malanad is a rain-fed countryside. It rains quite often here and that is the reason for the evergreen forests in the countryside.

A view from the driver's cab of the rail bus. The mist adds to the excitement of this little railway.

Kenchanahallu at 7:45 AM. We are halfway between Shimoga and Talguppa. This is a 'tea-halt'. the crew takes a break for some breakfast and tea. Kenchanahallu is a beautiful station along a state road. the road passes right through the station. Photo by Ranga

The passengers take a break along with the crew at this tiny station. Photo by Ranga

Kenchanahallu is amidst tall and shady trees. It is all quite and peaceful here. Photo by Ranga

We take the opportunity to have some refreshments ourselves. We followed the crew to this little hut next to the station that provided us delicious idlis and hot tea. Photo by Ranga

We resumed our journey after a while. Seen here is the guard operating the gates and running back to the train blowing his whistle to indicate Proceed. Seen here is the National Highway from Bangalore to Honnavar. Photo by Ranga

Adderi is a quiet and earthy station with big trees in the middle of some woods. An old lady and her grand-daughter walk away into the village. Photo by Ranga

We are now approaching Sagar, the biggest town in these parts and also the biggest station.

Sagar (Jambagaru) railway station is a grand building, almost abandoned now. It used to have retiring rooms before. Despite its age, it still stands strong and beautiful reminding one of the days of the Raj.

The empty space beside the station used to host a number of loop lines long ago, now dismantled. Sagar was a major station and goods yard in the olden days. The rail-bus stopped for 15 minutes here.

A lttile distance from Sagar was the Section Engineer's office which displayed teh history of this line as seen here. RRB - Birur. SME- Shimoga. SMET- Shimoga Town; ARU-Arasallu; ANF-Anandapuram; SRF-Sagar Jambagaru; TLGP-Talguppa. This line is up for broad gauge conversion and that would mean the end of this rail bus. But mericifully, the scenery would remain.

Interestingly, the station is called Sagar Jambagaru while town is called just Sagar. A nice pic by Bharath Moro.

VSP takes a respite. He has a facewash at the only water closet at Sagar station, which, surprisingly is working. Photo by Ranga.

The commercial goods transported on the rail-bus - cane baskets meant for some village market. Photo by Ranga.

The sign on the top of the door says "Nimma tale Hecharike" or "Take care of your head" in Kannada. vivek Pillay seems to be just aware while Lakshman (right) is more cautious.

We approach our destination: Talguppa, the terminus of this line.

Talguppa has a quite and serene atmosphere thanks to all those trees and a quaint old building that is surprisingly neat and tidy.

It is 10:30 Am now. The bus will return to Shimoga at 5:20 PM. Before that the cab of the bus has to be reversed and attached on the other side of the trailer car.

The driving cab is detached and taken to a branch line by switching the tracks manually. Seen here is the manual switch that is fast disappearing all over India being replaced by automated switches.

A closer look at the switching device, which has key to prevent accidental switching.

The driving cab is taken to the end of the branch line to a tiny turn table. The cab is placed on it to reverse its direction.

The crew is pushing the cab around to reverse its driving direction. Since the bus is very light, the crew simply pushed it onto the table using their hands. The turntable rotates on a set of bearings and is easy enough to be operated manually.

The found it easy to push it clockwise.

The cab is now reversed. It is ready to resume its lead position in the return trip.

The trailer cab hasdbeen pushed onto a switch line, the switch operated by a manual lever. Now the driving cab will be pushed back to attach it to the trailer.

The trailer and driving cab are hitched together.

The formation is brought back to the platform where it will rest till evening. The crew retire into the woods to take a well deserved nap and rest.

The team at Talguppa by the bus (before reversal). L-R: Colin Peter, Lakshman, Tejender Reddy, Assistant Loco Pilot, V Srinivas Prasad, Vivek Pillay, Praveen PVS, Bizzy Mishra and Bharath Moro. Squatting - yours truly.

Talguppa station building is a neat and cool place straight from the 1940's. It has an interesting architecture that is well maintained. Seen here are the two ticket windows. Surprising for a small station of a small village that sees only one round service a day. But the station has a reservation quota to book on the 6228 Shimoga-Bangalore Express. One of my favourite stations. I just hope that gauge conversion does not see the end of this beautiful station.